How to Pass Your Texas Vehicle Inspection

With the recent regulation shift, Texas vehicle inspections are no longer mandatory for cars registered after 2025. Instead, a new annual $7.50 fee replaces the traditional inspection process. Since this transition doesn't kick in until 2025, Texas vehicle owners still have mandatory safety inspections ahead. Moreover, some of Texas' larger counties will continue to require emission testing, and residents in the most densely populated areas will face annual emissions checks.

In this article, we'll guide you through the current inspection process, offering tips and insights to help you ensure your vehicle passes with flying colors.

Texas Vehicle Inspection FAQ

When must it be done?

A Texas vehicle inspection must be performed if the vehicle is:

  • New to Texas: within 30 days of moving to Texas
  • Renewing registration: within 90 days after registration expires
How Much is Texas State Inspection?

Inspection fees remain the same. The cost varies between inspection types and counties:

  • Commercial Vehicles - $40
  • Safety Emissions (DFW/Houston) - $25.50
  • Safety Emissions (El Paso, Travis & Williamson Counties) - $18.50
  • Emissions-only Vehicles (DFW/Houston) - $18.50
  • Emissions-only Vehicles (El Paso, Travis & Williamson Counties) - $11.50
  • Trailers and Motorcycles - $7
  • One-year Safety - $7
  • Two-year Safety for new vehicles - $7
  • Mopeds - $0.25
How Long is Vehicle Inspection Good for in Texas?

Vehicle inspections in Texas are typically valid for one year except when it’s for a new vehicle. For new vehicles, the inspection will be valid for two years — or until the new legislation kicks in.

Texas State Inspection Locations

All Caliber Auto Care locations in Texas are authorized to perform state inspections. We understand the value of your time. Our inspection stations focus on providing quick and thorough inspections, following our mantra of building trust through transparency. If you aren’t near a Caliber Auto Care center, you can find an authorized inspector with this inspection station locator.

Texas State Inspection Requirements — How to Pass the Texas Vehicle Inspection

High Beam Indicator

The high beam indicator is a dashboard light that signals whether your beams are active. Knowing whether your beams are active helps avoid unnecessary use and battery drain.

How to Pass the Beam Indicator Inspection

To pass your beam indicator inspection, the high beam indicator must light up ONLY when the uppermost distribution of light from the headlamp is active.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Beam Indicator Inspection

Your vehicle may fail the high beam indicator inspection if any of these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Vehicle is not equipped with a high beam indicator.
  2. Improper switching indication.
  3. The beam indicator produces a glaring light.
  4. The high beam indicator is inoperative for any reason.
Motorcycle, Motor-Driven Cycle, and Moped Brakes

Brakes limit the speed at which your motorcycle travels. Brakes are crucial for safety as they help riders manage their speed and maintain control of their vehicle.

How to Pass the Motorcycle, Motor-Driven Cycle, Moped Brake Inspection

To pass your brake inspection, your vehicle’s brakes must be capable of the following:

  1. Generating a brake force greater than 43.5% of your vehicle’s gross weight, or
  2. Decelerating from 20 miles per hour to a full stop at no less than 14 feet per second, or
  3. Stopping from 20 miles per hour within less than 30 feet. Measurement starts from the point at which the movement of the service brake pedal or control begins.

Note: Motorcycles must have adequate brakes on all wheels. Sidecars are not required to have brakes as long as the braking performance of the motorcycle or motor-driven cycle is met. Motor-driven cycles and mopeds must have brakes on at least the rear wheel. During the brake road test, if the certified inspector is not licensed to operate a motorcycle, motor-driven cycle, or moped, it may be driven by its owner or operator, with the certified inspector observing the braking performance at the brake test area.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Motorcycle Brake Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the motorcycle brake inspection if it doesn’t meet the parameters outlined in the requirements.

Parking Brake

The parking brake is a component of your brake system that serves as a form of redundancy meant to keep your vehicle in place in case your primary brakes fail.

Parking brakes may be activated by a foot or a hand lever.

Note: Parking brake inspections do not apply to motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, mopeds, trailers, semi-trailers, pole trailers, and mobile homes.

How to Pass the Parking Brake Inspection

To pass your parking brake inspection, your vehicle’s parking brakes should hold your vehicle in place despite the exhaustion of any energy source or leakage of any kind. If the parking and service brakes are connected in any way, the failure of one part should not impede the system’s ability to hold your vehicle in place.

Note: Vehicles with an automatic parking brake system release their hold once the transmission is placed in gear. To test an automatic parking brake, the pedal should be held down with the foot while applying the accelerator. Note that the vehicle should be in gear.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Parking Brake Inspection

Your vehicle may fail the parking brake inspection if any of these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Your vehicle does not have a parking brake.
  2. The operating mechanism does not hold the vehicle when fully applied.
  3. The actuating mechanism is not fully released when the release control is used.
  4. Your vehicle has mechanical parts that are missing, broken, badly worn, or not operating properly.
  5. Your vehicle’s pull cables are badly worn, stretched, frayed, or not operating freely.
  6. Parking brake does not hold the vehicle in place when an active vehicle is placed in forward gear and is accelerated enough to cause a pull on the braking mechanism.
Brakes

Brakes are crucial to every vehicle because they help manage speed. Brakes help us retain control over our vehicles and are our primary means of averting or mitigating accidents.

Every passenger car, truck, bus, school bus, and motorcycle must have brakes acting on all wheels.

How to Pass the Service Brake Inspection

To pass your service brake inspection, your vehicle must be capable of the following:

  1. Generating a brake force of at least 52.8 percent of gross vehicle weight rating.
  2. Decelerating to a full stop from 20 miles per hour at no less than 17 feet per second.
  3. Reaching a full stop from a speed of 20 miles per hour within 25 feet from where brakes are applied.
Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Service Brake Inspection

Your vehicle may fail the service brake inspection if any of these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Vehicle is not equipped with required service brakes.
  2. There is less than 2 inches of pedal reserve (the distance between the pedal to the floor when brakes are applied) for vehicles with conventional brakes.
  3. There is less than 1 inch of pedal reserve (the distance between the pedal and the floor when brakes are applied) for vehicles with power brakes (power must be on and operating during testing).
  4. There is less than one-third of pedal reserve relative to the total travel distance of the brake actuator for service brakes that cannot be checked through accurate measurement.
  5. Brake pedal height (the distance between the pedal and floor when the brake pedal is at rest) cannot be maintained under moderate foot force (40 to 60 pounds for conventional, 15 to 20 pounds for power brakes) for 1 minute.
  6. There is visible leakage or audible seepage in hydraulic lines, cylinders, or any other part of the service brake system.
  7. Fluid level in the master cylinder is more than 1 inch below the top of the reservoir or the manufacturer’s recommended level.
  8. Hoses or cables are restricted, abraded, crimped, cracked, leaking, frayed, or broken.
  9. Brake rods or mechanical parts are missing, broken, badly worn, or misaligned.
  10. Brake operating levers or control cables do not operate freely, are improperly positioned, or are misaligned.
  11. Any part of the service brake system has been removed, disconnected, or rendered inoperative.
  12. There is an obvious metal-to-metal contact sound when brakes are applied, and upon investigation, a drum or disk is being scored.
  13. The service brakes do not develop the required total braking force as determined by machine tests.
  14. Brakes do not meet requirements for stopping distances prescribed for your vehicle class.
  15. The brakes are not equalized as determined from road testing or machine tests of the vehicle.
  16. Brake warning lamp or signal is on or comes on during the test.

Note: An anti-lock brake system (ABS) lamp or signal that comes on during the test will not be cause for rejection.

Cab Lamps

Cab lamps are required only on truck tractors — vehicles designed and primarily used to draw other vehicles and to carry a load separate from its curb weight. Cab lamps are vital in ensuring oversized vehicles are visible on the road, especially in poor lighting conditions. They indicate your vehicle’s large width (at least 80 inches wide).

How to Pass the Cab Lamp Inspection

To pass your cab lamp inspection, your vehicle (if a truck-tractor) must have two functioning amber cab clearance lights mounted on the front of the cab, one on each side. If the vehicle has a sleeper cab, these lights may be placed on the highest and widest part of the cab, with the light visible to the front of the vehicle.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Cab Lamp Inspection

Your vehicle may fail the cab lamp inspection if any of these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Required lamps are not present.
  2. Lamp is not securely mounted and properly located.
  3. Lamp does not emit the required color, lens, or bulb painted.
  4. Lamp lens is discolored or missing.
  5. Lamp is not visible between 500 feet and 50 feet.
  6. Wiring insulation is worn, rubbed bare, or shows any evidence of burning, short-circuiting, or poor electrical connections.
  7. Lens is cracked or broken to the extent that a portion of the lens is missing and/or separated, permitting light from the bulb to emit through the crack or break.
Clearance Lamps

Clearance lamps indicate the extreme width and height of the vehicle and trailer. They are required on all buses, trucks, trailers, and semi-trailers that are 80 inches or more in width. They are also required on all trailers and semi-trailers that are 30 feet or more long. They are also required on all pole trailers.

How to Pass the Clearance Lamp Inspection

Your vehicle must have four operational clearance lamps to pass your clearance lamp inspection. They must also meet these conditions:

  1. Mounted on the permanent structure of your vehicle, enough to indicate its extreme height and width. They must be mounted at the highest and widest points of the corners of your vehicle.
  2. The vehicle’s front end must have two clearance lamps that display an amber color and must be mounted as prescribed.
  3. The rear end of the vehicle must have two clearance lamps that display a red color and must be mounted as prescribed.
  4. Clearance lamps must be visible under normal atmospheric conditions between 500 and 50 feet from the vehicle.

Note: If identification lamps are present and are mounted as high as practicable, clearance lamps may be mounted at an optional height. When the mounting of front clearance lamps as prescribed, fails to indicate the extreme width of the trailer, clearance lamps may be mounted at an optional height as long as they indicate the extreme width of the trailer as closely as possible. Clearance lamps and side marker lamps may be mounted in combinations, provided illumination is given as required by law.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Clearance Lamp Inspection

Your vehicle may fail the clearance lamp inspection if any of these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Lamps are not present.
  2. Lamps are not securely mounted and properly located.
  3. Lamps do not emit the required color; lens or bulb painted.
  4. Visibility requirements are not met.
  5. Lenses are discolored or missing.
  6. Wiring insulation is worn, rubbed bare, or shows any evidence of burning, short-circuiting, or poor electrical connections
  7. Lens is cracked or broken to the extent that a portion of the lens is missing and/or separated, permitting light from the bulb to emit through the crack or break.
Exhaust Emission System

The exhaust emission system directs the toxic gasses away from the driver and passengers. It also reduces the harmful gasses your vehicle releases into the environment. As it is a system critical to safety, the only time a vehicle owner may remove a vehicle’s exhaust emission system or any of its parts is when the removal is to install another emission system that is equally or more effective in reducing atmospheric emissions from the vehicle or engine.

Additionally, all gasoline-powered vehicles from 2-24 model years old will undergo gas cap testing. The only exceptions to this inspection are:

  1. Antique vehicles.
  2. Slow-moving vehicles.
  3. Motorcycles.
  4. Vehicles operated exclusively by a fuel other than gasoline.
  5. Vehicles newer than two years old and older than 24 years old.

Note: If installed as original equipment by the manufacturer, the catalytic converter will be considered a part of the exhaust emission system on all 1984 and later model vehicles. If installed on a 1984 model or earlier, it will be inspected as part of the exhaust system.

How to Pass the Exhaust Emission System Inspection

To pass your exhaust emission system inspection, your vehicle’s exhaust system must be unaltered, intact, and functional. The plumbing, hoses, air pump, and catalytic converter must be intact and unaltered. Your vehicle must also be equipped with the proper type of gas caps.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Exhaust Emission System Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the exhaust system inspection if these rejection conditions are present:

  1. The exhaust emission system has been removed.
  2. The exhaust emission system has been disconnected.
  3. The plumbing or hoses are loose, broken, leaking, or improperly routed.
  4. Air pump (air injection-type) belt is loose, removed, excessively cracked, frayed, or has missing pieces.
  5. The exhaust emission system has been altered in any manner to make it ineffective.
  6. The catalytic converter has been removed, leaking, or disconnected on a 1984 or later model vehicle.
  7. Vehicle not equipped with required gas cap(s).
  8. Vehicle not equipped with proper type gas cap(s).
  9. Gas cap(s) fails both tests.
Exhaust System

The exhaust system is responsible for collecting the harmful fumes produced by the combustion process and directing them away from the cabin. The catalytic converter renders toxic gasses such as nitrogen oxides and carbon monoxide harmless before being released into the environment. The exhaust system’s muffler also helps to reduce the noise generated by the vehicle.

Note: The catalytic converter will be considered a part of the exhaust system on all vehicles before the 1984 year model and will be inspected only visually (if present) for leakage. Meanwhile, the catalytic converter will be checked for presence and leakage in 1984 and later model light trucks and passenger vehicles.

How to Pass the Exhaust System Inspection

To pass your exhaust system inspection, your vehicle’s exhaust system must be complete, secure, and free of leakages or damage. These include the manifolds, gaskets, exhaust lines, mufflers, resonators, tailpipes, and supporting hardware.

Your muffler must be in good condition and free of perforation. Perforated mufflers must be replaced, not simply repaired.

Additionally, your tailpipe must discharge the exhaust at the rear or sides of your vehicle and away from passenger compartments. Campers and hard shell covers on pickups are considered passenger compartments, as is the entire structure of a home-type vehicle.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Exhaust System Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the exhaust system inspection if these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Vehicle is not equipped with a muffler.
  2. Any joint is loose or leaking, including manifolds. Does not include minor leakage at the exhaust control valve (manifold damper or heat riser valve).
  3. Manifold is cracked or broken, causing leakage.
  4. Holes, leaking seams, or patches on the muffler, resonators, exhaust pipe, tailpipe, or catalytic converter.
  5. Exhaust system is not secured to the vehicle by mounting brackets designed for exhaust systems (wire is unacceptable).
  6. Any brackets are loose, broken, or missing.
  7. There is excessive vibration of the exhaust line.
  8. Any part of the exhaust system that passes through the passenger compartment.
  9. The tailpipe is broken, pinched, or eroded off to the extent to allow exhaust fumes to penetrate the interior of the passenger compartment.
  10. The tailpipe fails to discharge exhaust from the rear or sides or top of the passenger compartment of the vehicle.

Note: Holes in the exhaust system made by the manufacturer for drainage are not cause for rejection. The tailpipe must direct the exhaust fumes out from under the passenger compartment. The inspection of exhaust systems covers the discharge of exhaust fumes and is not concerned with your vehicle’s noise level.

Headlamps

The key function of headlamps is to illuminate the road ahead and to facilitate road safety. Headlamps help make roads and potential obstacles visible, especially during low-visibility weather and dark areas.

All motor vehicles sold new after January 1, 1948, including motorcycles, must be equipped with multiple beam headlamps. Only vehicles sold new before January 1, 1948, and motor scooters, motorbikes, and mopeds may use a single beam headlamp.

Note: Fog lamps, auxiliary passing lamps, auxiliary driving lamps, backup lamps, and parking lamps do not need to be inspected. Slight moisture on composite lamps will not be a cause for rejection.

How to Pass the Headlamp Inspection

To pass your headlamp inspection, clean headlamp lenses if necessary.

Also check for burned-out headlamps and proper beam switching. Additionally, make sure to comply with these provisions:

  1. Retractable Lamps: must be fully retractable and must be able to open fully and lock in a rigid position.
  2. Lamp must be of a type that meets Department, DOT, or SAE standards.
  3. Dual or Four-headlamp System: must have a combination of a #1 and a #2 type headlamps on each side of the vehicle. Using any other type of lamp in those sockets is illegal and will not meet the inspection requirements for headlamps. Additionally, the four-headlamp system must be wired to burn as originally designed.

Every motor vehicle must have at least two headlamps, at least one on each side of the front of the motor vehicle. Every headlamp must be located at a height of not more than 54 inches and not less than 24 inches to be measured from the center of the lamp to the level ground. (Vehicle must not have a load.)

Every motorcycle, motor-driven cycle, and moped shall be equipped with at least one and not more than two headlamps. Every headlamp must be located at a height of not more than 54 inches and not less than 24 inches to be measured from the center of the lamp to the level ground. (Vehicle must not have a load.)

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Headlamp Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the headlamp inspection if these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Lamp or lamp assembly is not securely fastened to the vehicle.
  2. Lamp is improperly connected and does not light the proper filament for different switch positions.
  3. Lamp lens is cracked, broken, discolored, or missing. (Exception: Composite or halogen-type lamps will not be rejected for being cracked unless the reflector material inside the lamp is discolored or deteriorated.)
  4. Lamp is not of a type meeting Department standards.
  5. Wiring insulation is worn, rubbed bare, or shows any evidence of burning, short-circuiting, or poor electrical connections.
  6. Lamp lens is rotated, upside down, canted, or is marked "Right," "Left," #1 or #2 and not appropriately installed.
  7. Lamp fails to function properly in any manner.
  8. Lamp has dirt or any contamination or discoloration inside or moisture except condensed moisture in composite headlamps non-seal beam halogen lamps.
  9. Lamp switch or dimmer switch does not operate properly and is not convenient to the driver.
  10. Foreign material placed on the headlamp lens, such as shields, half of the lens, paint, tape, etc., that interferes with the light beam of the lamp.
  11. Vehicle is not equipped with headlamps as required.
  12. Lamps can be moved easily by hand due to a broken fender or loose support.
  13. Lamp is missing.
  14. Lens is not clear (white).
  15. Any filament in headlamps fails to burn, except composite lamps, which have more than one bulb when both upper and lower beams burn when selected.
  16. Wiring is dangling, or connections are loose.
  17. The lamp mounting fails to provide good electrical grounding.
  18. Lamp is mounted on the vehicle more than or less than the prescribed mounting heights.
  19. Head lamp is covered by any lens or cover located in front of the headlamp in a shade or color other than clear.
  20. There is physical damage that would cause a headlight beam to fail to sufficiently illuminate the roadway ahead of the vehicle.
Horn

Horns are vital staples to a vehicle’s safety equipment because they are effective ways for drivers to avoid a collision with another driver. They are used to warn other drivers and pedestrians of dangerous situations.

How to Pass the Horn Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s horn inspection, ensure that your vehicle is equipped with a horn (electric or air) in good working order and capable of emitting a sound audible for a distance of at least 200 feet. Ensure your horn does not emit an unreasonably loud or harsh sound or a whistle.

Note: Bulb or hand-operated horns are acceptable only if they are part of the original vehicle equipment.

How to Pass the Horn Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the horn inspection if these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Vehicle is not equipped with a horn.
  2. Horn or horn switch is not securely fastened.
  3. Wiring insulation is worn, rubbed bare, or shows any evidence of burning, short-circuiting, or poor connections.
  4. Horn switch is not readily accessible to vehicle operators.
  5. Horn is actuated by grounding two naked wires or similar methods.
  6. Sound is not audible under normal conditions within 200 feet.
  7. Horn emits an unusually loud or harsh sound or whistle.
  8. Operation of the horn interferes with the operation of any other circuit.
  9. Horn switch is missing or inoperative.
License Plate Lamp

The license plate lamp illuminates your vehicle’s license plates, making it easily visible and legible in low light conditions.

Note: On vehicles such as truck tractors, which require no rear registration plate, a license plate lamp would not be required. If two license plates are issued, a license plate lamp is required. An obstructed rear license plate is not a reason to fail the license plate lamp inspection.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the License Plate Lamp Inspection
  1. Lamp is not present.
  2. Lamp is not securely mounted to the vehicle.
  3. Lamp is not placed to illuminate with a white light on the rear registration plate. (Only one lamp is required.)
  4. Wiring insulation is worn, rubbed bare, or shows any evidence of burning, short-circuiting, or poor electrical connections.
  5. Lamp is not wired to be lighted when headlamps or auxiliary driving lamps are lighted.
  6. Lamp emits a glaring light to the rear. A tail lamp or a separate lamp shall be constructed and placed to illuminate the rear registration plate and render it legible for 50 feet to the rear. Any such lamp shall be so wired as to be lighted when the head or auxiliary driving lamps are lighted.
  7. Lens is cracked or broken to the extent that a portion of the lens is missing and/or separated, permitting light from the bulb to emit through the crack or break.
Mirrors

Mirrors are essential to road safety because they facilitate driver awareness by providing a clear view of the road, other vehicles, and objects behind the vehicle. This allows drivers to assess their surroundings before making a driving decision.

How to Pass the Mirror Inspection

Inspectors check only two types of rearview mirrors:

  • Exterior Rearview Mirror: From the driver’s position, they visually inspect the exterior mirror for a clear and reasonably unobstructed view of the rear. They also check for correct location and stable mounting.
  • Interior Rearview Mirror: From the driver’s position, they visually inspect the interior mirror for proper mounting, location, cracks, sharp edges, and ease of adjustment.

To pass your mirror inspection, make sure your mirror is securely mounted, damage-free, and does not obstruct your forward view. It must also grant a vision of at least 200 feet to the rear.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Mirror Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the mirror inspection if these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Mirror does not give the driver a clear view to the rear of 200 feet.
  2. Vehicle is not equipped with at least one mirror (Exterior or interior).
  3. Mirror offers unsafe interference with the driver’s forward vision.
  4. Reflective mirror surface is cracked, broken, peeled, tarnished, or has sharp edges.
  5. Mirror is not mounted securely to prevent swing or excessive vibration unless the vehicle has another mirror that meets requirements.
Rear Reflectors

Rear reflectors are reflective pieces commonly integrated into the rear bumper. They help make the vehicle visible to trailing vehicles in poor visibility, as is the case in dark areas and during inclement weather. When a light source hits the reflector, it bounces the light back at an equal angle, allowing the driver of the trailing vehicle to see a reflection of their headlights. This helps them judge distance accurately despite poor visibility.

[h4] How to Pass the Rear Reflector Inspection

To pass your rear reflector inspection, ensure your vehicle has the correct number of rear reflectors for your vehicle type. (i.e., Motor vehicles, trailers, semi-trailers, and pole trailers must have two or more red rear reflectors. Motorcycles, motor-driven cycles, and mopeds must have at least one red reflector. They may be mounted separately or as part of the tail lamps.)

Your rear reflectors should also be visible at night from within 600 feet to 100 feet for commercial vehicles and 350 to 100 feet for passenger cars, motorcycles, and motor-driven cycles manufactured or assembled before January 1, 1972.

Ensure your reflectors are mounted in the right locations. (At least 15 to 60 inches from the ground for passenger cars and 24 to 60 inches for commercial vehicles). They must also be mounted on each side of the vehicle. (Not applicable to motorcycles).

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Rear Reflector Inspection
  1. Your vehicle does not have a reflector.
  2. Your vehicle’s reflectors are not in red.
  3. Reflectors are not properly and/or securely mounted to the vehicle.
  4. Any reflector is cracked to the extent that its reflecting ability is impaired.
  5. Any reflector is discolored, deteriorated, or painted.
  6. Reflectors are not visible at the required distance.
  7. Reflectors do not meet the requirements as prescribed in terms of location and height from the ground.
Side Reflectors

Side reflectors serve the same function as rear reflectors, except they indicate the width of your vehicle. Side reflectors are required only on buses, trucks, trailers, and semi-trailers with an overall width of 80 inches or more. They are also required on trailers and semi-trailers that are 30 feet or more in overall length.

Side reflectors are subject to the same requirements as those for rear reflectors mentioned for commercial vehicles (i.e., they must be visible within 600 feet to 100 feet, and they must be mounted 24 inches to 60 inches from the ground to the center of the reflector.)

Additionally, commercial vehicles must have four side reflectors — two amber reflectors at opposite sides near the front and two red reflectors at opposite sides near the rear.

Trailers and semi-trailers that are 30 feet or more in overall length must have one amber reflector on each side, centrally mounted related to the length of the vehicle. Pole trailers must have one amber reflector at or near the front of the load (if loaded).

Note: If the highest part of the permanent structure of the vehicle is less than the height required, the reflector shall be mounted as high as that part of the permanent structure will permit. Reflectors may also be suspended on straps of up to 6 inches in length.

How to Pass the Side Reflector Inspection

To pass your side reflector inspection, your vehicle must have the prescribed number of side reflectors, and each of these must be of the correct color relative to their location. Ensure that your side reflectors are in good condition and are visible within 600 to 100 feet at night.)

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Side Reflector Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the side reflector inspection if any of these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Your vehicle does not have the correct number of reflectors.
  2. The reflectors are not the required color for their location on the vehicle.
  3. Reflectors are not properly and/or securely mounted to the vehicle.
  4. A reflector is cracked to the extent that its reflecting ability is impaired.
  5. Any of the reflectors are discolored, deteriorated, or painted.
  6. The reflectors do not meet the visibility distance required.
Safety Guards or Flaps

Safety guards are standard safety equipment in trucks and light trucks. They prevent slush, mud, and gravel from being thrown back into a trailing vehicle’s windshield. Safety guards are required on all vehicles with a rear-most axle with four or more tires. This also applies to trailers and semi-trailers combined with towing vehicles. Buses, motor homes, pole trailers, and truck tractors do not require safety guards or flaps.

How to Pass the Safety Guard or Flap Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s safety guard or flap inspection, make sure to install the correct size at the right location of your vehicle. Ensure that your safety guards are in good condition.

Safety guards must be suspended behind the rear-most wheels of your vehicle, such that their bottom edge must be within 8 inches (ideal) to 12 inches (acceptable) from the surface of the road. They must also be as wide as the tires they are protecting.

If your safety guards are installed on trailers or semi-trailers, each trailer will be considered a separate vehicle and must have safety guards or flaps on its rearmost axle.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Safety Guard or Flap Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the safety guard or flap inspection if any of these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Safety guard or flap is not present.
  2. Safety guard or flap is not securely mounted.
  3. Safety guard or flap is not as wide as the tire that it is protecting.
  4. Safety guard or flap is split or torn to the extent that it is ineffective.
  5. The bottom edge of a safety guard or flap is more than twelve (12) inches from the surface of the roadway.
Seat Belts

Seat belts are among the most important and effective safety measures. They keep occupants strapped in their seats at the point of impact, preventing them from getting ejected during a crash. Seat belts significantly mitigate the risk of a fatality in an accident by 40 to 50 percent.

How to Pass the Seat Belt Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s seat belt inspection, make sure your front lap seat belts are damage-free and their buckles are functional. Only automatic belts will be inspected on vehicles originally equipped with automatic shoulder seat belts. In contrast, front lap seat belts will be inspected on all other vehicles.

Note: The ignition seat belt interlock system is not an inspection item.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Seat Belt Inspection
  1. Front lap seat belts are required and not present.
  2. Seat belt webbing is frayed, split, or torn.
  3. Belt anchorages or attachment fittings are loose, badly corroded, missing, or not fastened to the belt.
  4. Belt buckles loose or inoperative.
  5. All seat belt anchor bolts are not securely fastened to the floor or missing.
  6. Pelvic restraint is not present.
  7. Seat belt will not adjust for proper fit.
Side Marker Lamps

Side marker lamps are used to indicate the overall length of a vehicle, especially in low visibility. They are required on all buses, trucks, trailers, and semi-trailers of 80 inches or more in overall width. They are also required on trailers and semi-trailers that are 30 feet or more in overall length and on pole trailers.

How to Pass the Side Marker Lamp Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s side marker lamp inspection, ensure that your vehicle has a total of four side marker lamps, two on opposite sides of the front and rear. They must be mounted on the permanent structure of your vehicle. They must also have the correct color relative to their location on your vehicle (2 amber side marker lamps in front and two red side marker lamps in the rear).

Side marker lamps must be visible between 500 feet to 50 feet under normal atmospheric conditions. Trailers and semi-trailers that are more than 30 feet in overall length are required to have a centrally-mounted amber side marker on each side, along with one amber reflector.

Pole trailers must have one amber side marker lamp and one amber reflector at or near the front of the load (if loaded). If without a load, pole trailers must have one combination marker lamp (amber in front and red to the side or side) on the rearmost support of the load.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Side Marker Inspections
  1. Lamps are not present.
  2. Lamps are not securely mounted and properly located.
  3. Lamps do not emit the required color; lens or bulb painted.
  4. Visibility requirements are not met.
  5. Lenses are discolored or missing.
  6. Wiring insulation is worn, rubbed bare, or shows any evidence of burning, short-circuiting, or poor electrical connections.
  7. Lens is cracked or broken to the extent that a portion of the lens is missing and/or separated, permitting light from the bulb to emit through the crack or break.
Steering System

The steering system transmits driver input from the steering wheel to the steering shaft. It enables drivers to control their vehicle’s direction between left and right.

How to Pass the Steering System Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s steering system inspection, your steering system must be in good working condition and must be properly adjusted.

To inspect for excessive wear and tear and maladjustment of the steering system, inspectors check for steering lash (where steering wheel input is not translated to the front wheels) and jamming (where interference in the system obstructs steering control).

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Steering Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the steering system inspection if these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Steering lash exceeds acceptable parameters.
  2. It is impossible to turn the steering wheel from full right to full left without binding or jamming other than at wheel stops.
  3. Steering mechanism is not firmly attached or free of frame cracks or missing bolts.
  4. Steering system modifications affect the proper steering of the vehicle, or the steering wheel, which has been modified or replaced with one noticeably smaller than the original factory equipment.
  5. Parts in the steering system are excessively worn or broken.
  6. Power steering units or hoses have visible leaks.
  7. Power steering belt is excessively cracked, frayed, has pieces missing, or has inadequate tension. Note: Serpentine belts cannot be rejected for cracks in the ribs.
  8. Fluid in the power steering unit is below the manufacturer’s recommended level or is overfilled.

On motorcycles and motor-driven cycles:

  1. Handlebars or steering head is bent, loose, broken, or damaged, creating unsafe steering conditions.
  2. Handlebar grips extend to a height greater than 15 inches above the saddle level.

Note: On vehicles equipped with power steering, the engine must be running, and the fluid level, belt tension, and condition must be adequate before testing.

Brake Lights

Your vehicle’s brake light switches on when you use your brake pedal, indicating to trailing vehicles that your vehicle is slowing down. brake lights are required on all vehicles as they are vital to road safety and the awareness of surrounding drivers.

How to Pass the Brake Light Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s brake light inspection, your vehicle must adhere to the following requirements:

Every motor vehicle, trailer, semitrailer, and pole trailer must have two or more brake lights, while passenger cars and trucks manufactured before 1960 must have at least one brake light. All autocycles, motorcycles, and motor-driven cycles must also have at least one brake light.

Your brake light/s must emit a steady burning red, amber light, or any color between red and amber. If your vehicle has two brake lights, they must be spaced far apart and must be visible from no less than 300 feet from the rear in normal sunlight.

Your brake light/s must also immediately light up upon application of service brakes.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Brake Light Inspection
  1. Required lamp or lamps are not present.
  2. Lamps are not properly located or securely mounted to the vehicle.
  3. Lamp does not emit a steady burning red or amber light upon application of the service (foot) brake.
  4. Lamp is not visible from a minimum distance of 300 feet to the vehicle’s rear.
  5. LED lights have less than 50% of the diodes illuminated.
  6. Lamp height requirements are not met.
  7. Lamp lens is painted, missing, discolored, or improperly fitted.
  8. Wiring or electrical connections are poor.
  9. Lamp projects a glaring light.
  10. Lamp is not mounted on the vehicle’s rear.
  11. Lens is cracked, broken, separated, or missing, permitting light from the bulb to emit through the crack or break.
  12. Lamps are not of equal intensity.
  13. Lamp lenses are repaired with repair tape or a kit.
  14. Any lamp assembly is cracked, allowing water to enter, or the lamp assembly contains water.
  15. Your vehicle uses a red bulb. (There are no red bulbs currently approved for use on vehicles.)
Center High Mounted Brake Light (CHMSL)

The center high-mounted brake light is a third brake light mounted as high as possible on the center axis of the rear of a vehicle. Center high-mounted brake lights are required on all:

  • Passenger cars manufactured on or after September 1, 1985.
  • All multipurpose passenger vehicles, trucks, and buses less than 80 inches wide with a GVWR of 10,000 pounds or less, manufactured on or after September 1, 1993.

Note: A camper shell covering the CHMSL shall not be grounds for rejection.

How to Pass the Center High Mounted Brake Light Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s center high-mounted brake light inspection, the CHMSL must emit a steady burning red light when the brake pedal is used. It must also be visible from a minimum distance of 300 feet to the vehicle’s rear. Ensure that your vehicle’s CHMSL is functional and damage-free. If using LEDs, 50% or more diodes must be illuminated when in use.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Center High-Mounted Brake Light Inspection
  1. Required lamp is not present.
  2. Lamp is not properly located or securely mounted to the vehicle.
  3. Lamp does not emit a steady burning red light which is actuated on the application of the service (foot) brake.
  4. Lamp is not visible from a minimum distance of 300 feet to the rear of the vehicle to which it is attached. LED lights have less than 50% of the diodes illuminated. Lamp height requirements are not met (Refer to Lighting Diagram).
  5. Lamp lens is painted, missing, discolored, does not fit properly, or has any aftermarket tint applied over the center high mount brake light.
  6. Wiring or electrical connections are poor.
  7. Lamp projects a glaring light.
  8. Lamp is not mounted on the vehicle’s rear.
  9. Lens is cracked or broken, permitting light from the bulb to emit through the crack or break.
  10. Lamp is not of equal intensity.
  11. Lamp lens is repaired via repair tape or repair kit.
  12. Any lamp assembly is cracked, allowing water to enter, or the lamp assembly contains standing water.
  13. Your vehicle uses a red bulb. (There are no red bulbs currently approved for use on vehicles.)
Tail Lamp

Tail lamps designate the rear of a vehicle. The main purpose of a tail lamp is to make the rear of your vehicle visible to other drivers, especially during low visibility.

How to Pass the Tail Lamp Inspection

To pass your tail Lamp inspection, make sure that your vehicle is equipped with the correct tail lamp configuration:

  • Every motor vehicle, trailer, semitrailer, pole trailer, and any vehicle being drawn must have at least two tail lamps mounted on the same level and far apart. They must be mounted 15 inches to 72 inches from the ground.
  • Every motorcycle, motor-driven cycle, moped, and all passenger cars and trucks manufactured before the 1959 model year must have at least one tail lamp. It must be mounted 20 inches to 72 inches from the ground.

Your tail lamps must emit a steady red light visible from a distance of 1,000 feet from the rear. tail lamp lens must also meet DPS standards.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Tail Lamp Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the tail lamp inspection if these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Required lamp or lamps are not present.
  2. Lamp is not securely mounted to the vehicle.
  3. Lamp does not completely emit a red light visible 1,000 feet to the rear.
  4. Lamp lens is painted, missing, discolored, or improperly fitted.
  5. Wiring is shoddy or electrical connections are poor.
  6. Lamp is not wired to be lit when headlamps or auxiliary driving lamps are lit.
  7. Lamp is obstructed by any part of the body.
  8. Lamp lens is not red color.
  9. Lamps are not mounted on the same level and as widely spaced laterally as practicable.
  10. Lamps are not mounted on the rear of the vehicle.
  11. Lens is cracked or broken to the extent that a portion of the lens is missing and/or separated, permitting light from the bulb to emit through the crack or break.

Note: Lamp lenses cannot be repaired with repair tape or a repair kit.

Tires

Tires are the only point of contact between your vehicle and the road. They influence how much traction your vehicle has, affecting steering response, acceleration, and braking.

How To Pass the Tire Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s tire inspection, ensure that your car is equipped with tires that are in a proper and safe condition. Make sure to follow the tire specifications found in your owner’s manual, including recommended tire pressure.

Check tire tread wear indicators and replace your tires if the tread wear indicators are flush with the wear bars.

Note: Dragster tires or racing slicks without sufficient tread or having all tread removed are unacceptable.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Tire Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the tire inspection if any of these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Any tire with a localized worn spot that exposes the ply or cord through the tread.
  2. Any tire with tread or sidewall cracks, cuts, or snags over one inch in any direction and deep enough to expose the body cords.
  3. Any tire with visible bumps, bulges, or knots related to tread or sidewall separation or partial failure of the tire structure, including bead area.
  4. Any tire that has been regrooved or recut below the original groove depth, except special tires that have extra under-tread rubber for this purpose (commercial vehicles only) and are identified as such.
  5. Any dual tires that make contact with each other.
  6. Any tire that is marked "Not for Highway Use," "Farm Use Only," "For Racing Purposes Only," or with other use restrictions that indicate the tire is not meant for highway use. (This includes temporary spares, inflatables, or small high-pressure spares.)
  7. Any tire that has been repaired temporarily using blowout patches and boots. (Nail hole plugs or patches are not cause for rejection.)
  8. Tires without tread wear indicators that have less than 2/32 (1/16) of an inch of tread design depth.
  9. Tires with tread wear indicators wherein the tread wear indicators touch the road.
Turn Signal Lamps

Turn signal lamps indicate a driver’s intention to change directions, whether to change lanes, turn a corner, or pull over to the side. Turn signals help make other drivers aware of your intention to change lanes, giving them time to predict your course and plot a safe path. Turn signals are essential to any vehicle, so much so that every vehicle, trailer, semitrailer, and pole trailer must come with electrical turn signal lamps.

How to Pass the Turn Signal Lamp Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s turn signal lamp inspection, ensure your vehicle has functioning turn signal lamps. They must be damage-free, visible, and capable of flashing when the turn signal switch is engaged.

Note: Passenger cars and trucks less than 80 inches in width and manufactured earlier than 1960 are not required to have electrical turn signal lamps.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Turn Signal Lamp Inspection
  1. Lamps are required and not present.
  2. Device is not securely mounted or properly located on the vehicle.
  3. Device does not meet the Texas Department of Public Safety standards.
  4. Lamp lens is discolored or missing.
  5. Wiring insulation is worn, rubbed bare, or shows any evidence of burning, short-circuiting, or poor electrical connections.
  6. Switch is inconvenient for the driver, or the indicator light does not operate.
  7. Signal shows any color other than white or amber to the front, or signal shows any color other than red or amber to the rear.
  8. Signal does not flash or is not operating properly.
  9. Signal is not visible to the front and the rear of the vehicle.
  10. Lens is cracked or broken, permitting light from the bulb to emit through the crack or break.
Vehicle Identification Number, Motor, or Serial Number

The vehicle identification number and motor or serial number are unique numbers that identify your exact vehicle and the specific motor installed. These numbers are crucial in identifying and tracking specific vehicles for recalls, warranty claims, registrations, thefts, and insurance coverage.

How to Pass the Vehicle Identification Number, Motor, or Serial Number Inspection

To pass the vehicle identification number inspection, your VIN must be complete and legible. It must have all 17 characters.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Vehicle Identification Number Inspection

An incomplete, obscured, altered, or removed vehicle identification number is not cause for rejection. However, your inspection station report will reflect the status of your VIN (NONE / OBS). If your vehicle does not have a VIN or if it has been altered, the inspector is required to report to the Texas Department of Public Safety representative.

Wheel Assembly

The wheel hub assembly is a key component of your vehicle’s steering system that keeps the wheel attached to your car and allows it to rotate freely. A faulty wheel assembly can impede the free rotation of your wheels and, in severe cases, can even cause your wheels to come off.

How to Pass the Wheel Assembly Inspection

To pass your vehicle’s wheel assembly inspection, ensure that your wheels are free from any damage. Check that your wheel studs, nuts, lugs, or bolts are secure, complete, and match. Your rims must also be free from defects. Motorcycle wheels must not have any damaged spokes.

All your wheels must be securely fastened to the hub assembly.

Note: Wheel covers or hubcaps may be removed from the vehicle if the certified inspector has probable cause or reason to believe that wheel or rim defects exist.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Wheel Assembly Inspection
  1. Loose, missing, or damaged wheel studs, bolts, nuts, or lugs.
  2. Any part of the wheel is bent, cracked, rewelded, or damaged.
  3. Loose, broken, missing, or mismatched wheel nuts, studs, and clamps.
  4. Mismatched, bent, sprung, or damaged rims and rings.
  5. Disc wheels with elongated bolts, holes, cracks between hand holes or stud holes, or both.
  6. Cast wheels with cracks and/or evidence of wear in the clamp area.
  7. Rims that have defects or cracks that impair safe mounting and proper tire retention.
  8. Any wheel cannot be securely fastened to the hub of the vehicle.
  9. On motorcycles and motor-driven cycles, any spokes are bent, loose, broken, or missing.
Window Tinting

Window tint blocks out UV rays and reduces glare from the sun. They also help provide a modicum of privacy. Indirectly, they also help keep your vehicle interior cool and prevent the upholstery from cracking or warping due to prolonged exposure to direct sunlight.

How to Pass the Window Tinting Inspection

To pass the window tint inspection, your windshield tint must be within 5 inches from the uppermost part of your windshield. Your windshield tint must not be red, blue, or amber in color. The tint on the front row window must have a light transmittance of more than 25%. The tint on second-row windows may be of any darkness.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Window Tinting Inspection

Your vehicle could fail the window tinting inspection if these rejection conditions are present:

  1. Windshield tint extends downward beyond the AS-1 line (a parallel line 5 inches from the top of your windshield).
  2. Windshield tint is red, blue, or amber in color.
  3. Front-row windows have less than 25% light transmittance.
Windshield Wipers

Windshield wipers are among the most crucial parts of your vehicle’s equipment because they have a direct effect on visibility. They help keep the windshield clear of any obstruction, rain, snow, or dirt.

How to Pass the Windshield Wiper Inspection

To pass the windshield wiper inspection, your vehicle must have the correct number of windshield wipers as originally intended by the manufacturer. (i.e., If your vehicle originally had one wiper, only one wiper will be required.)

Make sure that there is proper contact between the blades and the windshield and that the arm returns to its original position after being raised and released.

Reasons Your Vehicle Could Fail the Windshield Wiper Inspection
  1. Vehicle doesn’t have the number of wipers it was originally equipped with.
  2. Wiper is inoperative, does not operate freely, or is improperly adjusted.
  3. Wiper blades have damaged, hardened, or badly worn rubber elements.
  4. The portion of the rubber element that contacts the windshield is torn more than one inch on one end or is torn a total of one inch on both ends.
  5. Any part of the rubber element is torn loose from the metal backing or blade base.
  6. Metal parts of wiper blades or arms are damaged or come in contact with the windshield.
  7. Wiper is incapable of adequately cleaning the windshield.
  8. Wiper blades are not making proper contact with the windshield.
  9. Wiper controls are not operating properly or are located beyond the driver’s reach.

Note: The rear window is not considered a windshield, and any wiper present on the rear window is not an item of inspection.

The Texas state inspection is a recurring requirement for all vehicle owners wanting to renew their vehicle registration. Generally, it’s best to retain your car’s original equipment and follow the recommended specifications in your owner’s manual.

If your vehicle fails the inspection, you have 15 days to address these areas of concern before returning to the inspection station for a free re-test. Caliber Auto Care shops offer a variety of auto care services that can help you address multiple concerns all in one place. Our ASE certified technicians are here for you.

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